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Weapons Training - Compression Hemping [Vintage]

Weapons Training - Compression Hemping [Vintage]

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Course Name: Weapons Training
Class Name: Compression Hemping
Class Instructor: Carl Donley
Date of Original Live Class: Thursday, July 19th, 2012 at 6:30pm

Description: In this class we take a quick look at how to hemp a joint. This is not just a slap-it-on approach but rather a meticulous approach which when done well can make the joint last for years! Check it out as we step through the process and make a perfect joint.

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tags:
Carl Donley Carl Donley is professional piper who hails originally from Chicago. He has been playing for over 20 years and has taken numerous prizes in solos throughout his rise to the professional grade. Carl got his pipe band start with the Ft. Lauderdale Highlanders in south Florida, and also played in the Grade 2 Chicago Midlothian Scottish Pipe Band during high school, before joining The Oran Mor Pipe Band in 2008. In addition to playing in Oran Mor, Carl was the Pipe Major of The Iona College Pipe Band during his four years at Iona College. He is now the Chief Operating Officer at the Piper's Dojo.

Comment(2)

  1. I have a video from Jim McGillivray "pipes Ready #1". He advocates the final couple of wraps on all tuning pin joints should be teflon tape so the tuning can be done by turning the top piece one way or the other, so it can tune up or down according the the wraps of the teflon "memory". Is that ok to do, or is it better to wrap with out teflon tape according to Carl Donley's instruction ? just wandering

    1. Andrew, the more I've researched this the more I am convinced that it comes down to personal preference and experience. Every professional or more experienced piper I've talked to or read their postings have a slightly different take on what to use. Yellow hemp, black hemp, teflon or no, beeswax or paraffin wax or Ringo's hemp treatment. I think the take away here is the proper setup of your tenons so that they are firm but adjustable. You don't want them slipping and you don't want to be able to rock them side to side.

      Carl mentioned that on the tenons that go into the stocks (blowpipe, chanter and drones), you want firm and you want to have to use a bit of force to move. You also want to have about an eight of an inch gap from the last wrap to the projecting mount or shoulder. Otherwise, if/when the hemp slips down it will form a wedge that allows it to exert more force on the stock and leads to cracks.

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